How to Breed Dachshunds
Breeding Miniature Long Haired Dachshunds is really no different to any other dog how ever there are some important factors that need to be taken into consideration. So before you even think about breeding go HERE and if breeding with Dapples HERE to fully understand the potential issues and pitfalls with breeding miniature long haired Dachshunds. You MUST also fully understand and comply 100% with the Dachshund Breed Council Code of Ethics HERE If you then don't fully understand the serious potential issues and understand how to take them into account safely then please please, don't breed until you do! If you need any help and or advice then please just ask, we will be delighted to help and or put you in touch with someone else more qualified if required.
The normal and most common is for
the Bitch to come into heat at 6 months of age and then every 6 months there
Normally the bitch is breedable on approx day 10/12 to day 18, but it is not uncommon for them to remain in heat till day 21. While each dog is different the average heat is 2 to 3 weeks. They start to clean them selves more and more frequently and this is often the first sign of the bleed. Once the bleed commences (day 1 - although remember you may have missed it by a few days) by day 10/12 it goes a lighter pink colour and the surrounding area becomes very puffy swollen in appearance this is the time to mate them. If you have a male he will know best - he will regularly check by lick analysis action or no action and is your best and most accurate form of detection. Obviously if he is not the dog you plan to use this should be done under 100% restrained supervision! If you have got it too early the male won't be that interested and the bitch won't let him near if it's right then things will occur. My advice is it's better to be too early than too late; you can always try again the next day and so on. Too late and you have missed it until the next season! By day 16 they stop bleeding how ever they are often still mateable for quite some time after! Unfortunately many people think when they stop bleeding, they are out of heat, but in a dog, it means they ovulated. Click on the pictures below for more detailed view of bitchs in various stages. Note the gradual opening and movement away to facilitate easier entry by the dog.
Having read the breed issues and dapple information go HERE and HERE the first thing to do is to ensure the stud dog meets those requirements. The second thing to do is to make sure as far as possible that he meets the breed standards go HERE and last but not least make sure YOU like the dog his temperament etc - don't just use a dog because he did well in shows as often these dogs are not well socialised given many live in kennels for most of their time. Plus MLH in particular have quite a few dogs winning that don't really fit the breed standard, this is down to confusion over size ratio clearance etc no correct dogs for a judge to compare against, set ways etc etc. The Dachshund breed council are making great strides in clarifying standards but this will take some time. Check his pedigree and make sure any colours the stud carries fit in with the bitch for example don't breed a red and a chocolate or you'll end up with reds with pink noses! Don't be afraid to make your own judgement, after all the pups will be your line so should be the very best you can produce.
What colour will the Puppies be?
The system for working out what colour puppies you will get from the parents is for many too complex so we have built an online simple - select the parents colour from drop down box's and it gives a prediction of what colour the puppies will be Click here for how to work out Dachshund Colours
Our recommendation is to get the bitch scanned - (a) to be sure she caught on and (b) to get an idea of how many pups to expect. You need to do this around a month from when you think she conceived. Check with your vet though as some prefer earlier and others a bit later depending on their scanner system. Belle conceived between the 17/9/08 to the 21/9/08 the scan below was done on the 17/10/08.
While it looks like possibly 6 pups it turned out to be 5 in this case.
You wait - see an idea of changes below. We make sure the bitch has the very best to eat during this time others feed slightly more then normal the closer it gets. My advice is garbage in garbage out; so feed the very best and move her onto the puppy food you plan to use in the final month/last few weeks.
Building a nesting box
We simply build a box 3 ft by 3ft with wooden dowel bars that can be fitted to prevent mum rolling over the pups. You can of course buy ready made ones from lots of suppliers on the internet easily enough. They even have cardboard throw away ones now! See the video clips for our design. You will also need a waterproof cover if using a wooden box and some vet bed (fluffy stuff that vets use - lets wee through while keeping a dry top layer) both can easily be obtained from various suppliers on the internet. You can see our design in the video clips below
Click here for video (Mum Getting Ready) 12/11/08
Click here for video (Pig Bars fitted) 14/11/08
If you haven't already done so now is the time to get a kit put together of the basic things you will need. You can easily buy a ready made up kit from the internet and for your first litter I'd recommend it as that will provide you with things you actually need and those you didn't know you needed!
As a very bare essentials kit you will need:
VERY BARE BASICS KIT: forceps (to clamp cord), scissors (to cut cord), iodine (to dab on injury/short cut cord - use cotton buds), rubber gloves (handling things), powdered puppy milk (just in case you need to feed one or all! - you will need a feeding bottle as well) towels (pups need to be dried as they get cold very quickly, sponge (clean mum off), scales (weight when pups come out and keep checking daily that way you can be sure they are growing correctly - pup loosing weight get help and advice from your vet immediately), thermometer (used to tell when pups are due - see below).
There are lots more things you can get such as colored bands to identify pups if they are all the same colour for example but they aren't essential.
Generally it takes around 63 days from conception to pups born but some are earlier and some later. So long as the pups are born within the light and green areas all should be well outside this you may have issues. As you can see here Belle in this instance was two days earlier than the 63 days often quoted. An accurate way to tell when the pups are due is to take the bitch's temperature daily (at the same time if at all possible is best) and plot them on a little graph as we used below and then wait for the sudden drop - Then you know it will be within 24hrs!
CYCLE Chart - Slight temp rise followed by a fall (around 36.8 - in our case it was lower 36.4) indicates pups due with in 24hrs. Green day 63's indicate possible date 63 from a number of matings. Actual date was the 16/11/08 from a conception of 17-21/9/08 - DAY 61!
When the pups are on the way you may find some dark green stuff comes out first. If a pup doesn't follow fairly soon after that CHECK WITH YOUR VET! More often than not it's nothing to worry about BUT better to be safe than sorry as it can indicate problems and require a caesarean. Bitch showing signs of distress again CHECK WITH YOUR VET! Anything at all you aren't happy with CHECK WITH YOUR VET!
Mostly mum will deal with this herself how ever given the small size of these dogs you may need to gently ease the bitch's exit hole larger with a finger around the pup coming out to sort of literally pop it out. Once out mum will bite the cord or you can clamp it with forceps about a fingers width from the puppy hold for 20 seconds of so to seal and cut with scissors, if there is no bleeding all's well, if there is some bleeding a dab of iodine should stop it or re-clamp with the forceps for a while. If you can't stop the bleeding CHECK WITH YOUR VET! Mum will eat the afterbirth etc and while this is fine it's better she doesn't eat too much or she will have diarrhea. If mum doesn't clear the bag and other membranes clear them away quickly by hand making sure the pups mouth and airway is 100% clear. If a pup isn't breathing and you have cleared the airway as well as you gently swinging the pup head down held firmly in your hands can help to dislodge foreign matter you can't get to and gently massaging it's chest can start it breathing. If a puppy is cold to the touch, you need to warm the puppy up gently and slowly. Too sudden or quick a temperature change can cause shock or even burn. One good way is to put the pup on your body and use your body heat to re-heat the pup up. Turn the puppy regularly to get a good even heat and make sure you don't suffocate it. Once the pups moving and feels warm to the touch try and get it to feed from mum. We had to hold one pup on mum's nipple for almost 20 mins before he would feed! We almost gave up and bottle fed we were so worried about him - he later turned out to be the greediest and the character of the litter! MAKE SURE IT IS WARM when the pups come out - COLD KILLS PUPS! Some breeders use a heat lamp others an electric fan and others just have the house heating on FULL. Check the temperature with a thermometer as often you will feel hot given you are moving about a lot where as it may be a lot cooler then you think! I would suggest it needs to be around 75F or 24C air temp at BIRTH! Once the pups are dry and fed it can be a little cooler.
CUT CORD - CLEAR AIRWAY - KEEP WARM & DRY - FEED
You can get a much better idea of what happens in the video clip below.
16/11/08 (Day 61)
Click here for video (Pups Born)
Feeding the Pups
If mum can't or won't feed a pup then it may be necessary to feed by hand with powdered puppy milk INITIALLY EVERY TWO HOURS! We used Welpi but there are plenty of other makes around.
Normally mum will feed the little guys and you will only need to feed her. I recommend on puppy food and plenty of eggs. Liquid calcium should also be given to mum to help rebuild the reserves she looses to the pups.
Around four weeks or slightly earlier you can try the pups on scrambled egg with milk once they take to this you can graduate on to puppy food soaked to make a sort of mush and from there onto more solid food. Once they get sharp teeth mum will be reluctant to want to feed them anymore so my advice is get them on solids as soon as you reasonably can.
Eyes open can take quite a while to open and contrary to popular opinion they don't always all open wide on day 10. In our last litter the first pup opened his eyes on 1/12/08 - DAY 16! They all take their time and often only open a tiny slit for quite some time and then suddenly they all have open eyes.
Click here for video (Pups eyes open DAY 16!)
Once they get to eight weeks get their inoculations done by your vet and you can let them go to new homes if you aren't keeping them all. PLEASE PLEASE make sure they go to good homes it would be a real tragedy after all your hard work for them to end up with people who then ill treat them for the rest of their lives. We won't even accept a deposit until we have met and vetted as far as is reasonably possible potential future owners - you should do the same. If in any doubt at all about a potential owner don't let them have a puppy! Lastly make sure buyers sign a contract to look after and care for the puppy for all of it's life!
While we believe what we have said is correct PLEASE PLEASE always check with your vet first! Need any help or clarification on anything we've said then please don't hesitate to contact us.
More video footage of breeding/pups etc can be seen on: